Field notes
Gusinje sits in a wide valley in the north-east of Montenegro, between the Prokletije mountains and the border with Albania. It is small — a few thousand people, a handful of streets, one lake below the town — and it is the quietest way into a national park that most visitors to Montenegro have never heard of. Our two houses, Mountain View Resort and Hotel Mountain View, are the base we write from.
Below is the short list we send guests before they arrive: the places within half an hour of the door that are worth a morning, an afternoon or a full day. Distances are measured from the town centre and driving times are rough, because mountain roads are slow and beautiful. Trail conditions change with the weather, so ask us before you set off and we will tell you what is passable this week.
Valley
The long green valley that most guests come for: a wall of limestone peaks on either side, shepherds' huts, orchards and river pools where the road ends and the walking begins. It is the classic start for climbs towards Karanfil and the easiest full afternoon out of Gusinje.
Mountain
Montenegro's national park over the range known in Albanian as the Accursed Mountains, declared in 2009. Snowfields stay late into spring, the trails are marked but rarely crowded, and the upper valleys are kept free of vehicles. Ask us for the route that suits your boots and your day.
Lake
A small mountain lake high above the valley, reached on foot in about three hours from the trailhead near Vusanje. Cold clear water, a grassy bowl to rest in, and one of the widest views in the range on the way up.
Lake
A glacial lake down the road towards Plav, with a shoreline path, boats for hire in summer and water warm enough for a swim from July. Plav town at the far end is where most guests go for a bigger shop or a fish lunch by the water.
Activity
A cluster of springs that rise out of the rock just outside town and turn immediately into the Ljuča river, with shaded tables where locals spend Sunday afternoons. Easy to reach, cool in summer and good with children.
Town
A small town of stone houses, bakeries, cafés and shops, built on the old trade route between Plav and Albania. Everything a traveller needs for a few days is within a short walk, and Hotel Mountain View sits in the middle of it.
Ask the guide
Say what you like — an easy afternoon with children, a lake to swim in, a long day on the ridge, photography, food in town — and our guide suggests the places within half an hour of Gusinje that suit you best. It answers in English, Montenegrin, Russian or Albanian.
An automated guide to the places in this list. For dates, prices and availability, send us a request.
The nearest international airport is Podgorica, roughly two and a half hours by car on the road through Plav. Tivat and Dubrovnik are longer but scenic drives. If you are arriving without a car, say so in your request and we will help arrange a transfer.
June to early October is walking season, with the clearest weeks usually in July and September. May and October are quieter and colder on the high trails. Winter is for snow, slow mornings and the fireplace at the resort.